Valparaiso: Grub, the Sea, Street Art & Mala the Dog

Ah, Valparaiso - or Valpo, for short - a faded UNESCO World Heritage 19th century port city still teeming with bohemian life, culture and pride in its colorful storied past. It reminds me of San Francisco, with its hills (but 42 of them?!!!), multi-colored houses and wayward streets. Like the Mission District, but way bigger. An entire city bigger.

But the connection isn't limited to just topographical similarities - its past wealth is rooted in the California Gold Rush and Valparaiso was the most important port in South Pacific Latin America when ships had to make their way around the Cape of Good Hope at the continent's tip.

Both cities became prominent basically for the same reasons at the same time.

But Valparaiso's fortunes turned for the worse with the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914... Oh well.

Today, ships still come and go but the newer port closer to the national capital, Santiago, has gained dominance. However, Valparaiso is still home to the country's navy and its academy and there's a growing awareness that its future lies in that other industry popular among other similar "declining" places with a rich past: tourism.

(Side note: Evidence of still being a thriving port city: I was instantly identified by locals - mostly older men, presumably somehow connected with the marine-merchant trade - as Filipino. Apparently, more than a few Filipino sailors pass through on ships. A karaoke bar at the port bears a Filipino name. Not one "konichiwa" has been thrown at me.)

Went on a walking tour with American expat, Sam, and his German Shepherd, Mala, and spent the day with three other Americans and a Brit.

A highlight: a visit to Nobel Laureate Pablo Neruda's nautical-themed house.

Food? Most popular is the chorrillano, a heap of greasy fries topped with meat, grilled onions and eggs, served with aji, (a tangy and spicy pepper sauce).It's so popular that I had it twice in two days. That and a lot of good empanadas. Also, knocked on the door of a lady who made alfajores, cookies stuffed with dulce de leche (caramel) - 30 cents.

There goes the diet.

Tomorrow, off to Santiago.