Santiago: Trailing the Canadian PM's Wife & an Earthquake

I dare say Santiago is the most underrated capital in South America. That said, I've only been to Buenos Aires and Lima. But if a capital city reflects the characteristics of the entire country, then Chile must be orderly, clean, safe and... relatively expensive.

Got to my hostel in record time via bus and subway with flawless connections from Valparaiso. Yes, efficiency that contradicts any preconceived ideas about Latin American ways.

After leaving my bags at the hostel, i headed directly for the Mercado Central for a taste Chile's renowned seafood. Ducked into a mom-and-pop place, avoiding the main restaurant, "Donde Augusto", crawling with tourists and an army of waiters bearing menus in half a dozen languages at twice the price. I was rewarded with a unique treat: Pastel de Jaima, a baked bubbling casserole of shredded bread and crabmeat and a half-bottle of wine for $15. All within sight of fishmongers, an elderly but courtly gentleman restaurant barker trying to attract customers. Anthony Bourdain would have been proud.

Spent the rest of the day on a "free" (meaning, for tips) walking tour, hitting the traditional historic sites. The tour reaffirmed everything I'd read about city: it's very civilized, rich in history and worth a visit (or at least on a stopover, since most flights from North America funnel through Santiago.)

The next full day was spent alone with the aim of seeing the more contemporary side of the city. Architecturally, it's a winner: from the Museum of Memory and Human Rights to the Gabiela Mistral (another Nobel Laureate... again for poetry) Center.

Also chanced upon the Canadian Prime Minister and the Chilean President doing their heads-of-states-meeting-in-public ritual and consequently bumping into the Canadian first lady at a handicrafts shop and later at the top of the hill to catch the sunset. Was impressed by the lack of security around her in both instances.

On my last night, was awakened by an earthquake measuring 6.5 at 12:30am, at which point everyone in the hostel came down to have martinis. Then I caught my airport shuttle two hours later.

I like this place.